Discover whether Cuenca, Ecuador is truly right for your retirement.
Seven days on the ground with the people who actually live and work here. Not as a tourist. A week built to show you what it's really like, so you can stop guessing.
No payment at this stage. Applications are read personally.
Eric explains the week
Who this is for
You've watched the videos. You've run the numbers on a spreadsheet more than once. And you still don't know whether you could actually live there.
No amount of reading closes that gap. Standing on the street and learning from fellow expats does.
It happens at seven in the evening on a street you've never walked, when you work out whether you feel at home or out of place. It happens sitting across from someone who moved here at 68, asking them what they got wrong. It happens in an apartment you could actually afford, seeing how the light falls in it.
So that's what this week is. Seven days of finding out.
Some of you will go home having decided yes. But some will go home having decided no, and that's a good outcome too. You'll have worked it out for a couple of thousand dollars, instead of after you've shipped a household across a continent.
Because this isn't really a decision about Ecuador. It's a decision about what you want the rest of your life to look like, and that's not one you can make from a spreadsheet.
"You really have to come and see with your own two eyes."
Richard, retired in Cuenca, on Eric's channel
Eric with Richard, who retired to Cuenca. His words turn up a few more times further down this page.
Who else will be there
Mostly people in their sixties and seventies. Mostly retired, though a few are still working remotely and have no plans to stop. Most are travelling on their own. Almost none of them have made up their mind. Neither have you, probably.
The group is small and it stays small. You'll know everyone's name by Tuesday.
The part you can't get from a video: the people who are already here, on an ordinary afternoon.
The week at a glance
Mon 9Arrive and restNothing scheduled. The altitude gets a day.
Tue 10The city, and why people fall for itOld town, Panama hat factory, expat happy hour
Wed 11Money, safety and SpanishTwo briefings, the market, the visa and legal panel
Thu 12Healthcare and property groundworkTwo panels, a hospital visit, a free evening
Fri 13Homes, and an hour that's yoursCurated viewings, then one to one sessions
Sat 14The valley, the springs, the send-offGualaceo, a country lunch, thermal spa, graduation
Sun 15Home, with an answerTransfers, and a written next-steps summary
The week, day by day
Day 1
Mon 9 Nov
Arrival, and nothing else
Staggered pickups from Cuenca airport, the bus terminal, or the Guayaquil transfer. Someone's waiting with your name on a sign.
Check in and rest. Cuenca sits at 2,560 metres and the altitude finds most people on the first two days. It's deliberately empty, on purpose.
Optional short walk near the hotel for anyone with the legs for it.
Welcome dinner. Eric frames the week and everyone works out who everyone is.
Day 2
Tue 10 Nov
Why people fall for this city
Week overview and why Cuenca. Climate, the UNESCO old town, a dollar economy, and the size of the community you'd be joining.
Walking tour of the historic centre. El Barranco, the Tomebamba river, the New Cathedral, the flower market, and the Inca ruins at Pumapungo.
Lunch in the old town.
Panama hat factory. They're made here, not in Panama, and you'll be fitted for your own as part of the week.
Free time. Actually free.
Happy hour with expats who live here. Cost of living and what it's really like day to day, over a drink instead of from a stage.
Cuenca from the Turi lookout. Around 330,000 people, in a valley at 2,560 metres.
Day 3
Wed 11 Nov
The practical morning
Private breakfast in our own room, so everyone can hear. Money and taxes: banking, moving funds, deposit insurance, and the fact that US citizens keep filing.
Safety, and what daily life actually feels like.Where the real risks are, what to do if something happens. Led with an expat who lives here, not with a sales pitch.
The city market, and your first Spanish. Learn the words, then go and buy something with them.
Lunch.
Panel: visas and legal. The team who actually file these applications, plus the lawyers who handle wills and property, alongside someone who has been through it. Eric moderates.
Free time.
Dinner with expats on the theme of what I wish I'd known.
Day 4
Thu 12 Nov
Healthcare, and the property groundwork
Breakfast and a short briefing on shipping, pets, and bringing your household in duty free.
Panel: healthcare. Expats on the public system and on private insurance, with a bilingual doctor. Costs, quality, and what happens in an emergency.
A short healthcare visit, so you see a facility rather than only hear about one. Brief and reassuring, not a clinical tour.
Lunch.
Panel: property. Buying versus renting, neighbourhoods, the process, the traps, and real prices.
Optional chocolate factory with a second Spanish session. Skip it and rest if you'd rather.
Free night. Eat where you like from a list we give you. The quiet confidence of finding your own dinner in a foreign city is part of the point.
Healthcare in Cuenca. Thursday includes a short visit, which is usually the moment this particular worry goes quiet.
Day 5
Fri 13 Nov
Homes, and an hour that's just yours
Curated viewings. Three or four homes matched to what you told us before you arrived, plus one you probably can't afford, because it's worth seeing what the top of the market looks like.
The best lunch of the week.
One to one sessions.Two stations running side by side, property and visas. Thirty minutes per household to map your actual next step, with the people who'd be handling it. Nothing attached to it.
Not in your slot? The hotel, the spa, the pool, or a walk. Nothing scheduled.
An easy dinner before the last full day.
Day 6
Sat 14 Nov
The valley, the hot springs, and the send-off
East into the valley to Gualaceo. Warmer, lower, cheaper, and where a fair few expats end up instead of the city.
Chordeleg, for the silver.
Lunch and orchid gardens at a country hacienda near Paute. This is the day people photograph.
Thermal springs and the outdoor spa circuit. The week catches up with you around here.
Graduation dinner. Soak first, celebrate after, same place.
Day 7
Sun 15 Nov
Home, with an answer
Staggered transfers to the airport or the terminal.
A written summary of your own next steps, sent while the week is still fresh, whichever way you decided.
Is it safe? The honest answer
It's the first thing almost everyone asks. And you've probably seen the headlines about Ecuador, so here's the answer we'd give a friend.
Ecuador's serious crime problem sits on the coast and along the trafficking routes, in Guayaquil, Esmeraldas and Manta. Cuenca is in the southern highlands, a different economy and a different situation entirely. Almost nobody reading US coverage knows that distinction exists, and it's the single most useful thing to understand about the question.
Ecuador's crime coverage is about the coast, and about Quito. Cuenca sits in the southern highlands, inland and up.
But that doesn't mean nothing happens here.
What happens is opportunistic. Phones, bags, distraction, in fairly predictable places at fairly predictable times. It's the kind of risk you handle with habits, and you'll have those habits by Wednesday.
"What people are reacting to is that the violent crime rate has gone up along the coast, in Guayaquil, and in Quito even. But Cuenca has stayed relatively safe. I feel just as safe as I did the day I arrived."
Richard, retired in Cuenca, on Eric's channel
We're not going to tell you it's perfectly safe. Nowhere is, and you wouldn't believe us anyway. What we'll do instead is give you a proper briefing on Wednesday morning with a summary to keep, put the question straight to every expat on every panel and let them answer honestly, bad stories included, and then walk you back through the old town after dinner so you can judge for yourself how it feels at nine at night.
And if you don't speak Spanish. Everything on this trip runs in English, so you'll never be the person standing there not understanding. But we'd rather you didn't leave without finding out how far a little Spanish gets you, so there's one session at the market. You learn twenty words, then go and buy something with them. People are usually surprised by how well it goes.
If you're coming on your own
More than half the people who've enquired are travelling alone. So you won't be the odd one out. You'll be in the majority.
The room supplement is the easy part to talk about. The other half is harder: seven dinners wondering whether you're intruding on other people's conversations.
You won't be. The week is built around a small group who arrive as strangers and mostly leave with each other's phone numbers, and the evenings are deliberately varied so nobody gets stuck in the same seat next to the same couple every night. There's a free evening on Thursday for anyone who wants their own company, and a WhatsApp group running before anyone gets on a plane, so you'll recognise faces at the airport.
And if you'd rather share a room and skip the supplement, say so on the application. We'll try to match you with someone.
What it costs
Founding rate, first eight, until 10 September
$2,095
Per person sharing a room
After that
$2,295
Per person sharing a room
Travelling on your own? The prices above assume two people sharing a room. A private room adds $375 for the week, so on your own it is $2,470 at the founding rate. We would rather you saw that here than at checkout. And if you'd sooner share and save it, say so on the application and we'll try to match you up.
"There's a lot of foreigners living here in Cuenca, and a lot of them are here because they have a very modest budget. I know people in two-bedroom apartments between $300 and $400 a month. And I know people paying $1,300, $1,400."
Richard, retired in Cuenca, on Eric's channel. His experience, not a quote from us.
Included
Six nights in a boutique hotel in the historic centre
Breakfast every day
All airport and in-city transport
Every hosted meal except the free night
Three expert panels and four briefings
Panama hat, fitted at the factory
Curated property viewings
Your one to one property and visa sessions
The valley day and the country lunch
Thermal spa and the graduation dinner
Written handouts on money, safety, shipping and neighbourhoods
A personal follow-up after you go home
Not included
Flights to Ecuador
Travel and cancellation insurance, which we require
Dinner on the free night
The private room supplement, if you want one
Who is running it
Eric hosts. People who live here do the rest.
Eric has spent years going straight to the source across Latin America, sitting down with the people who actually made the move instead of reporting on it from a distance. He hosts the week, moderates the panels, and keeps everyone honest.
Eric in the historic centre. He has been coming to Cuenca long before this trip existed.
YapaTree has been doing Cuenca property for eight years, rentals, sales and management. They curate the viewings, run the property sessions, and round up the expats you'll meet.
You don't have to take our word for either of them. Eric has already spent an episode with both.
Expat Law Group handles visas and residency, and sits down with you one to one on Friday. These are the people who actually file the applications, and the lawyers who deal with wills and property once you own something here. Not a commentator, not a blog.
And a licensed Cuenca ground operator handles the transport, the hotel and the logistics.
And afterwards
The week ends on the Sunday, but the decision usually doesn't.
Everyone goes home with a written summary of their own next steps, sent the same day while it's all still fresh. If that's a visa, the people you met on Friday already have your situation in front of them. If it's a property, the people who showed you around are still here and still looking. If it's neither, and you've decided Ecuador isn't the answer, then you've saved yourself the biggest mistake on the list and nobody's going to keep emailing you.
Nothing on this trip is a contract. But you'll leave knowing exactly who to call, and they'll already know your situation.
Questions people ask
How hard is the altitude?
Cuenca sits at 2,560 metres. Most people feel it on the first day or two, usually as breathlessness on stairs and a broken night's sleep. That's why day one has nothing scheduled and day two starts late. Drink more water than you think you need. And if you've got a heart or lung condition, put it on the application and have a word with your doctor first.
What's the pace like? I'm not as quick as I used to be.
There's downtime every single day, and the longest run of scheduled activity is about six hours. The walking tour and the market both involve cobbles and a few hills, and both can be cut short. Tell us what you need on the application and we'll build around it. You won't be left trying to keep up.
Do I need Spanish?
No. The whole week runs in English. That one Spanish session is there to show you it's learnable, not to test you.
How do I get there?
Connecting flights come into Cuenca, usually through Quito or Guayaquil. Some people would rather fly into Guayaquil and drive up through the mountains, which is a beautiful trip. We'll send routing advice once you're booked, and we'll collect you whichever way you come in.
What if I've got a medical condition or take prescriptions?
Very common on a trip like this, and not a problem. Just tell us on the application. Cuenca has good private hospitals, and the healthcare panel is on the schedule precisely because it's what people worry about most after safety.
Am I going to get sold to?
The Friday sessions are opt-in, and they're there because people asked for them. Nobody's going to trail you around an apartment with a contract in their hand. And if you go home having decided Ecuador isn't for you, we'd genuinely rather you said so plainly than politely.
What happens if the trip doesn't fill?
Everyone gets a full refund, hold included, and we run it early next year instead. You would not be out a cent.
Apply for a place
Applying costs nothing and commits you to nothing today. We read every one personally, and you'll hear back within a couple of days.
Thanks, that's in.
We read every application personally, so give us a couple of days. If the dates work and you're ready to hold a place, you'll hear from us sooner than that.
$2,095 until 10 SeptemberSeven days in Cuenca, 9 to 15 November